DAY
ONE
Lug
Von Siga – Mirror
Mirrors are the inspiration for designer
Gul Agis, especially the Ottoman superstition of hanging them backwards. Like
the Ottoman craftsman who decorate the back of the mirror, she uses plush black
velvet and ecru wool embossed with an embroidered print to team with her
‘mirror’ of silver and gold metallic leathers . These leathers are also
embossed with a raised design to add more of a 3D effect. For a softer look, the mirror changes to
diaphanous overlay panels of crisp organza. Not forgetting the superstition of
broken mirrors, shards of mirror create a glamorous decorative yolk on a
structured grey dress as though defying the seven years bad luck myth.
Timur
Kim – Caviar
Titled Caviar, white t-shirts paired with
silk taffeta skirts sported the Caviar design whilst a wallpaper print of the
same design covered blue silk satin prom style strapless dresses and tea
dresses. But mainly the prints where
inspired by the ornate motif ceilings of the Hermitage museum in St Petersburg
and came in a variety of colour ways and patterns. Teaming with cropped jackets of different
patterns but of the same colour tones was surprisingly easy on the eye. A collaboration with Oliver Sweeney brought
matching coloured and patterned oxford shoes, a fresh change from the sky high
heels usually worn which I’m sure the models appreciated.
Belle
Sauvage
This is East meets the dark romantic Gothic
and Renaissance West. Faux fur capelets
and collars in black and rich shades of red, purple and magenta. Silk patterned
shift and tunic dresses are trimmed with black lace on hems, collars and
sleeves. Chanel type suits are given the Gothic touch with rich Baroque prints.
Patterns include red tigers, black panthers, Baroque style jewels and chains
plus the faces of Renaissance women with flowing blonde and red hair. Bringing
a touch of lightness is the cameo print of a D’Artagnan style cat.
Runway
Collective introduces two up and coming designers:
NIAN
by designer Nihan Buruk
Clean linear silhouettes given a punk edge
with hanging chains on trousers and a futuristic look with curved louver ridges
reminiscent of gills. Neutral palette of black, white and greys with a bold
accent of red.
Janucha
by designer Jale Hurdogan
Here Miss Prim 1940’s goes a little grungy
wearing chunky knitwear with lace trimmed dresses. Even for the evening she
combines a chunky knitted hooded capelet and long fingerless knitted gloves
with her feminine sequined lace cocktail dress.
Nico
Didonna – The Modern Jazz Era
Taking the 1950’s mellow and cool style of
jazz, Nico interprets the calming and rich qualities into his collection. Sharp
tailored trousers are given a fluid grace with a matching long skirt piece
covering the sides and back whilst simple silk tops drape around the body as
though a just thrown on like a shawl.
The stand out piece was the black and white gown with panels that
twisted slightly as though hugging the curves of the body - so Audrey Hepburn
chic.
DAY
TWO
Carlotta
Actis Barone
Think black and white 1930’s Hollywood
lounge glamour with pleated skirts (long and short) in diaphanous floaty
chiffon, nipped in waists and structured shoulders in faux leather. Monochrome colour block panels and geometric
slashes of transparent fine nets in between the thicker jersey, wools and faux
leather were inspired by two artists.
The geometric works of Italian visual
artist Manuela Corti (Carlotta’s mother) and the soft cubism/Art Deco style of
Tamara de Lempika. Feminine, sexy and glamorous in the strong independent woman
mould.
Zeynep
Tosun - Reign of the West
A true AW colour palette of mustard, rust,
red, gold, cream and black. Fabrics are warm cashmere, velvet, silk crepe and
embroidered leathers. High necklines of
Victorian ruffles showed over stiff collars and chokers. Worn with leather skirts with embroidered
swirl patterns and ornate belts this was an opulent side to the Victorian Wild
West. The upper part of the cowboy style boots
are attached to the bottom with only a strap given the impression you can
remove and wear as a shoe.
Bernard
Chandran – Dovima On A Date
Chandran’s muse for the collection was
Dovima, the supermodel of the 1950’s. An era when head to toe glamour was
expected and achieved on a daily basis.
Pieces were ladylike with cropped jackets, below the knee narrow skirts
with fishtail hems and tapered pants. But those demure high necklines revealed
a sexy side with keyhole backs, leather panels hugged the front like basques
and fur trims just gave some modesty to sheer panels. Emerald beading added sparkle forming a
branch like pattern, whilst crystals surrounded the neckline and cuffs making
wearing jewellery moot. The smooth and
silky Balaclava replaced the retro 50’s headscarf look updating to a more
futuristic style.
DAY
THREE
Felicities
Presents:
Basharatyan
V – Broken Angel
A colour palette of black and white with a
bold accent of crimson red. The collection shows two sides to this angel, one
side is down to earth structured tailoring whilst the other spreads its wings
with flowing long skirts and wide sleeves.
Vita
Gottlieb – Without A Doubt
Inspired by two French poets Arthur Rimbaud
and Paul Verlaine, the collection has a dark romanticism with colour palette of
burnished gold, copper and black. There is also a hint of medieval style with
the lurex looking chainmail like with tiny ridges.
Beautiful
Soul – I Love Ladybirds
Designer Nicole Wood likes to take
inspiration from happy memories, of ladybirds and flowers found in her
grandma’s front garden. The flower for this season is the blue Hydrangea on
lilac, black and peach backgrounds. And if you look closely you’ll see the red
ladybird.
Neobotanic
The collection is more ongoing rather than
seasonal, concentrating on the fruit and veg prints they do so well. Using 100%
silk the pieces won’t keep you warm but the bright pop colours of red, green
and purple chosen are hot. The thin quilted vest tops will give some warmth are
reversible with a print one side and pop block colour on the other.
DAY
FOUR
Nina
Naustdal – Gold Collection
Although well known for her embellished
Swarovski couture gowns and cocktail dresses, there was not a crystal in sight
on her AW13 Gold Collection. However inspiration was taken from raw diamonds in
natural and colour ways of emerald and amber with one bold print reflecting the
iridescence of precious jewels. Animal print was also present looking more exotic and wild in a
kaleidoscope of colours, but also
tamed as the background of an equestrian style print. Fabrics included silks, chiffons,
velvet and leather panel detailing.
Heohwan
Simulation – Editorials in 68
May 1968, Paris saw protests and strikes on
a grand scale by its young students and workers; a revolution that was cultural
and sexual as well as political. Korean
born designer Hwan Heo creates a collage print on silk of the political and
fashion editorials of that time. As though starting a new revolution of their
own, the black and white prints spring to life with splashes of neon yellow and
blue. However it wasn’t the print that
was the forefront of this rebellion, but the tailoring. Lines were clean and strong with crisp folded
panel detailing; oversized jackets had seriously dropped shoulders and large
zips made a statement. The polo neck, the uniform of the 60’s Beatniks, was
there quietly supporting the collection.
DAY
FIVE
Maria
Grachvogel - Reflection
Inspired by the quiet calm of winter
woodland landscapes laid bare. Artwork
is of stark dried branches, decayed leaves and negatives of deconstructive
botanical prints. On paper it sounds cold and harsh, but on silk chiffon,
satin, velvet and wool it’s a warmer and softer story. Texture was a key feature with degrade wool
creating the illusion through a black and cream mix, and the rich jacquard
pattern creating a vintage embroidered lace overlay. Wedge ankle boots in artwork printed leather
and glossy patent are collaboration with Atalanta Weller (Photographer: Christopher Dadey)
Ashish
– Working Girl
Last season the Ashish girl was a young
maths geek. This season she is all grown up and working. Her new work attire is not inspired by the
office, but from manual workwear: the high visibility yellow vest with reflective
tapes, aprons, boiler suits. Prints are of checks, tartan and the black and
white distinct pattern found on the Keffiyeh (Arab headdress). She is the best
dressed labourer on the building site. Her sweaters may have added plastic
pockets and silver reflective straps, but they are of luxurious mohair.
And that tartan blanket she wraps around herself to keep warm on her tea
breaks is sparkling with sequins.
Ziad
Ghanem – Candy...Darling?
Last but definitely not least was Ziad
Ghanem’s colourful eclectic collection. As usual, Ghanem choose larger than
life characters and a mix of sizes and ages to model and compliment his rich
and opulent pieces. Styles varied from the brightly patterned tight maxi skirts
teamed with the high necked flouncy silk blouses to the voluminous ball
gowns. Surprisingly this bold and bright
theatrical collection was quite wearable and if I ever receive an invitation to
a Grand Ball, I’ll be on the phone to Ziad for that graceful taffeta pink
mermaid gown with boat neckline and those over the elbow pale pink patterned
opera gloves
By Karen Grace
Personal Shopper & Image Consultant for Frumpy to Funky http://www.frumpytofunky.com
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