London Fashion Week SS12 - Day Five

A LA DISPOSITION

Titled ‘Mechanical fAILURE’, this collection’s aim was to form an expression of defiance in an age of retraction.

It was a high contrast of fabrics, shapes and colours coming together. Neutral shades of khaki, black and beige with the richer yellows and iridescent purples. Crisp cottons and wool with taffeta silks. Sharply tailored serious shirts with the more flirty voluminous short trousers and skirts.

Knee length jodhpurs created movement with their 3D folds imitating a propeller whilst the bunching up of fabric on taffeta skirts and dresses created the illusion of light fluffy clouds. All were paired with no nonsense tailored blouses which gave a grounded and edgier feel to the whole look.

The only failure present here was in the title.

ELISA PALOMINO

Although the collection is titled ‘A Fairy Dance’, inspiration came partly from the traditional Manila shawl of Madrid. In the 18^th Century, beautiful hand embroidered silk shawls made their way from China and featured peonies, pagodas and dragons. However soon the patterns changed from their Chinese essence to accommodate the Spanish taste of birds, butterflies and roses.

Palomino’s collection is a mix of these patterns, from oriental patterns of pagodas on bold red gowns to the laser cut white appliqué butterfly and floral motifs on black gowns. 

But a fairy dance feel was there in the lightness and the ethereal movement of the fabrics, the cobweb sleeves and bodies adorned with floral embroidery and the wonderful flora and fauna headpieces by Angel Amor.

INBAR SPECTOR

Israeli born Inbar took her SS12 inspiration from the theme of nightmares and hell of her own hometown which was destroyed by fire this year.  Focusing more on the fear which is mixed with happiness at a large gathering such as a wedding, her collection was not as darkly gothic as I expected. In fact the colour palette was gold, white, dusty pink and pale green with only a smattering of black.

Creating a Goth like royal court, the first models wore voluminous gold and silver brocade faux leather jackets and coats over frothy tulle skirts.  No straight lines here but wavy zip fasteners and undulating padded sleeves.

The darker side appeared in tulle strips wrapped around metallic faux leather and lace dresses like bandages, whilst diaphanous metallic embossed lace dresses clung to the body in uneven folds giving the impression of scarred tissue.

It was the honeycomb tulle dresses that fascinated me, loved the fullness, the texture, the look and how they bounced as the models walked. A white floor length tulle dress wound its honeycomb self around a model like a giant swirling meringue.  Thinking that this was the finale dress as how could you top that? To prove me wrong, a golden faux leather dress appeared with a floor length honeycomb skirt instantly reminding me of a beautiful 3D bell decoration you hang up at Christmas. This dress needed respect as it bounced and moved to its own tune, and the model had no option but to move slowly providing us with a great opportunity to see the intricate laser cut perforation designs. 

MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF

Not titled ‘A Wolf in Sheep’s Clothing ‘ but ‘A Wolf in Lambs Clothing’, it was every little girls dream from the runway with arches made of pastel coloured balloons, the gaggle of little ballerinas pirouetting in the middle and the bigger girls in blonde wigs and pastel satin baby doll slips playing with lipstick and powder puffs.  

The models emerged in childlike inspired clothes, blue pinafore dress with large multi coloured buttons layered over a multi coloured checked dress with tie, red skirt with heart shaped pockets and a smiley face heart shaped bib , pink leotard with bloomers peeping through.

Slightly more grown up was the next procession of models in 18^th century French court inspired garments – baby blue coat dress embellished in gold brocade but with cheeky powder puffs peeping out of the breast pockets, and a baby pink leotard with short cape attachment and blue lacy blouse underneath.  There were cheeky elements in the guise of a white crystal embellished bustier style leotard with fluffy skirt and a baby pink cardigan with peek-a-boo holes revealing a sequined bra underneath.  

All gloriously over the top and very  sugar and spice even down to the wedge shoes which were trimmed with metallic frills top and bottom and looking very much like slices of cake.




By Karen Grace
Personal Shopper & Image Consultant for Frumpy to Funky http://www.frumpytofunky.com