Fyodor Golan (Designer duo Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman)
Vibrant Royal blue with pristine white makes a dramatic entrance. The tailored and structured styles restrict the models movement but look chic and elegant embellished with peplums, lattice designs, beads and sequins. One white porcelain corset is adorned with broken Victorian patterned china. Midway, the colour palette changes to oranges and ambers with lighter fabrics of loose flowing chiffons and organza fabrics in prints of swirling autumn leaves. Collaborations included the organic face sculpture jewellery by Yunus & Eliza and architectural hats by Zara Gorman.
A relaxed carefree collection of short skirts, crop tops, t-shirt dresses in pale pinks, blues and tangy oranges with the more tomboy slouchy tees and joggers. Prints range from a subtle cracked stone to the brighter sunset stripes. Standout pieces are the poppy red suede maxi dress and the stunning but oh so impractical red suede bikini.
Nielsen’s collection blossoms into deconstructed floral sculptures of petals, sepals and stamens in the form of voluminous ruffles, peplums and large loosely tied knots. Sleeves varied from the wide bulbous to slit like pods keeping the arms held securely to the side. Usually opting for darker colours, this collection sees shades of vanilla, peach and blush. Headwear by Emma Yeo showcasing her SS13 Lucidus Lilum collection inspired by the Japanese mountain Lily continues the floral theme.
Architectural elements are the key feature. Prints of viaduct etchings stretch the length of trousers and sleeves elongating the arms and legs, and ornate Greek columns adorn the lapels of short jackets and hug the sides of pencil skirts. Shoe collaboration is with Italian shoe designer Daniele Michetti
The collection shows a fragility as the confident and sexy leopard print has really changed it spots into a print of broken butterfly wings. The chiffon fabric flutters lightly, some embellished with clusters of chiffon butterfly wings whilst thin soft leather and suede tailored pieces keep the collection anchored. And no girl should be without the Bailey’s bottle holster!
Inspired by tea this is a sweet blend of Eastern inspirations and Western tailoring. The high side slit of the mandarin dress is there but not the collar, preferring an asymmetric cut. The colour palette is neutral with accents of green tea and the tailoring is softened with an infusion of gauze reminiscent of the muslin tea bag. As a nod to the Chinese tea pickers, the models wear conical shaped hats made of bamboo.
It’s the 60’s with a touch of the Mary Quant and the Vidal Sassoon hairstyles. Colour palette is monochrome black and white with accents of silver and beige. Patterns are abstract leopard print and geometric designs, some embellished with tiny round mirrored pieces radiating a disco vibe. The key feature which definitely couldn’t be ignored on the day was the oversized shell like discs adorning one dress and skirt – especially as they clashed noisily with every move the models made. Not to be worn for a clandestine rendezvous.
More renowned for his glamorous and elegant evening wear, Mansoor has taken a walk on the edgier side and created a boho daywear collection. What is not different is his attention to detail. Here he concentrates on intricate and delicate lace work and fine knitwear layering.
You do a double take at the Bernard Chandran show as the front and back of each outfit contrast with each other in cut and design. You see simple on one side, detailed on the other; short length on ones side, long on the other– reflecting that there are two sides to every story and especially love.
Think Brigitte Bardot in her heyday 60s and her St Tropez lifestyle. Colours are bright pastels and patterns geometric shapes and stripes. From swimsuit to maxi dress, all are of finely knitted jersey in different weaving techniques including pleats and ribs. This is definitely a capsule wardrobe to carry on the fun from beach to evening.
Here Lin chooses to express the erotic but twisted manipulation of the Greek goddesses Hera, Athena and Aphrodite as each try to persuade Paris that they are the fairest one. He cuts his pieces to appear distorted as if in a state of undress. Trench coats are deconstructed into dresses, playsuits and tops with strong emphasis on belted waists. Panels of wild and chaotic digital prints on body con dresses and leggings mimic the goddesses’ tense and erratic mood and show the golden apple – the start of all the trouble.
Inspired by the sophisticated lifestyle of the 50s Luna Sky features evening gowns and cocktail dresses with Swarovski crystals, sequins, delicate lace and fringe detailing. Her love of the Japanese cherry blossom Sakura is there as laser cut flower details, some sparkling with crystal stamens. Lemon yellow and peach may have been popular in the 50s but it was the more defined blue and teals that caught my eye.
Using cutting edge materials such as Japanese Kyototex metallic yarns in his knitwear techniques, Lawrence enables his garments to glisten as if wet. This season he adds long optic fibres to help create the reflective light for a phosphorescent underwater world- Some curved and stood out like a sea anemone, others softer like swaying sea grass. Column tiered dresses mimic the fluid shape of the glowing jellyfish and the textured knits the spiky urchins. These pieces were made to be in the spotlight and outshine all others.
It’s ShowTime! Pam Hogg’s pieces are not the most wearable for your average girl in the street, but that doesn’t mean her collection is not to die for. Titled ‘Save Our Souls’ the show started with a model clad in bandages followed by nurses flimsily dressed to give any man a heart attack. The style changed to a combination of futuristic nurse and air hostess look with zips galore, and from clinical white to a rainbow of metallic colours. There was also a bit of the Showgirl glitz with sequins and tulle. At the end it was Hogg’s love of the Victorian crinoline skirt that wowed everyone. Here in its skeletal state baring all that is underneath. Save our souls? I think we’re doomed.
Nova Chui (Designer duo Nova Chui and Jeff Archer)
This is one glorious way to show off your holiday snaps! Using images from their travels, the designer duo created digital enhanced landscape prints for their fabrics. Scenes of mountains, forests, streams and sunsets are brought to life in vivid colours. Scrunched and ruche neon organza adds texture but also a camera filter effect as it partly covers the prints. These prints add fun and ensure that the minimalistic and classic look of the collection is not taken too seriously.
This season the Ashish girl is a maths geek and so a fashion prime number. There’s a numeric print on oversized wonky boyfriend shirts and denims. Sequin tops are completely backless revealing her sexy side. Trousers are half and half: one leg sequined whilst the other is matte; one leg skinny whilst the other is palazzo style. The achieved style is a random just thrown together look but as a maths geek, is it calculated?
Jena.Theo (Designer duo Jenny Holmes and Dimitris Theocharidis)
The title may be Hell’s Angel but this collection is heavenly. Prints of tattoo designs and the odd spider add a touch of toughness, but nothing to overwhelm the elegance and femininity of the collection. Corset style tops of ethereal organza and digital prints look soft and feminine. Glass beading and sequins bring glamour to diaphanous latex and fine leather as well as the usual silks. A quirky sense of fun is shown in the cowhide short skirts. Of course the denim is there and although you’d need a slim figure, am loving the skinny fit denim jumpsuit. Hand-rendered tattoo print and abstract works are of the artist O.Two
By Karen GracePersonal Shopper & Image Consultant for Frumpy to Funky http://www.frumpytofunky.com