Following a patriotic Graduate Fashion Week (GFW) 2012 with a runway backdrop of the Union Jack,
GFW 2013 went for the classic monochrome look with a super shiny black reflective
runway and a chorus line of black and white tailors mannequins on stage. In the centre of the runway, hazy beams
of light shone down forming a circle.
These rays of light were the perfect setting for the winning collection of the International Show Award as they shone on to Angus Chiang’s (Shish Chien
University Taiwan) futuristic collection of space suits ready to beam them up. The
space suits ranged from the practical and wearable black aviation style
jumpsuits to the outrageous and show stopping astronaut suit covered in
colourful fabric carnations – maybe saying it with flowers is the universal
language for that alien encounter.
Keeping with the bright colour theme was the winner of the Zandra Rhodes Textile Award – Kirandeep Bassan from Northampton
University. The main colour
palette was of just three bright colours (orange, blue and yellow) but variations
of shades gave depth and the illusion of many more. Prints were everywhere right down to the high wedge clogs. Texture was key as though the prints
were exposing numerous layers of paint and brush strokes under a peeling
surface. Larger and smoother
colour blocks became the canvas for contrasting shapes of circles and panels.
Texture was also key with the
winner of the Stuart Peters Knitwear Award – Thea Saunders of Nottingham
Trent University. Patterns clashed
wonderfully together ranging from period, classic and contemporary. Yellow
woollen shag pile adorned chunky cable short jackets like swirling gold baroque
embroidery, whilst multi coloured shag piles created an unfinished tapestry
effect on a slimmer digital patterned jumper. Straight skirts and dresses knitted
in an abstract and coloured take on the classic houndstooth were worn with jumpers
in futuristic computer grid patterns.
Womenswear winner Hannah
Williams of UCA Epsom went for minimalism in pale pastels and
neutrals. Latex fabrics, frayed
hems and simple loose cuts gave the collection a simplistic first impression.
But on closer inspection these shapes were like rubber casts ready to create
another style as tactile trompe l’oeil brought a subtle 3D dimensional outline of
lady like jackets with strings of pearls and an oversized zip fronted dress.
Menswear Award went to Shauni
Douglas with accessories by Olivia Creber, both from Edinburgh College of
Art. Olivia’s false beards - surely the next must have sartorial accessory -
certainly caught the eye as held in place by a mouthpiece, they bounced and
swished as the model moved. The collection itself was a mix of Western tailoring and Middle Eastern
layering of long tailored shirts to the knees and longer worn with shorter tops
and coats. Prints were of oversized digital tartans and smaller checks
alongside the richer tartans and geometric diamond patterns
The prestigious George Gold
award plus £20,000 prize money went to Lauren
Smith of Edinburgh College of Art. Air bubble
designs, appliqué doodles, oversized coloured paper clips on exaggerated A line
tunics with patch pockets, coloured metal eyelets and coloured thread trimmings
and wide bell sleeves gave a feeling of childlike innocence and dreams. Tulle mid calf skirts in neon yellow and
pale blue added a light hearted flirty touch to this feminine collection.
This year’s Lifetime Achievement
Award presented by Hilary Alexander went to Suzy Menkes fashion editor of the
International Herald Tribune.
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