DAY
ONE
Fyodor
Golan (Designer duo Fyodor Podgorny and Golan
Frydman)
Vibrant Royal blue with pristine white
makes a dramatic entrance. The tailored and structured styles restrict the
models movement but look chic and elegant embellished with peplums, lattice designs,
beads and sequins. One white porcelain corset is adorned with broken Victorian
patterned china. Midway, the colour palette changes to
oranges and ambers with lighter fabrics of loose flowing chiffons and organza
fabrics in prints of swirling autumn leaves. Collaborations included the organic face
sculpture jewellery by Yunus & Eliza and architectural hats by Zara Gorman.
Zoe Jordan
A relaxed carefree collection of short
skirts, crop tops, t-shirt dresses in pale pinks, blues and tangy oranges with
the more tomboy slouchy tees and joggers.
Prints range from a subtle cracked stone to the brighter sunset stripes. Standout pieces are the poppy red suede
maxi dress and the stunning but oh so impractical red suede bikini.
Corrie
Nielsen
Nielsen’s collection blossoms into
deconstructed floral sculptures of petals, sepals and stamens in the form of
voluminous ruffles, peplums and large loosely tied knots. Sleeves varied from the
wide bulbous to slit like pods keeping the arms held securely to the side. Usually opting for darker colours, this
collection sees shades of vanilla, peach and blush. Headwear by Emma Yeo showcasing her SS13
Lucidus Lilum collection inspired by the Japanese mountain Lily continues the
floral theme.
Krystof
Srozyna
Architectural elements are the key feature.
Prints of viaduct etchings stretch the length of trousers and sleeves elongating
the arms and legs, and ornate Greek columns adorn the lapels of short jackets
and hug the sides of pencil skirts. Shoe collaboration is with Italian shoe
designer Daniele Michetti
Felder
Felder
The collection shows a fragility as the confident
and sexy leopard print has really changed it spots into a print of broken
butterfly wings. The chiffon fabric flutters lightly, some embellished with
clusters of chiffon butterfly wings whilst thin soft leather and suede tailored
pieces keep the collection anchored. And no girl should be without the Bailey’s bottle
holster!
DAY
TWO
Ji
Cheng
Inspired by tea this is a sweet blend of
Eastern inspirations and Western tailoring. The high side slit of the mandarin
dress is there but not the collar, preferring an asymmetric cut. The colour
palette is neutral with accents of green tea and the tailoring is softened with
an infusion of gauze reminiscent of the muslin tea bag. As a nod to the Chinese tea pickers, the
models wear conical shaped hats made of bamboo.
Jasper
Garvida
It’s the 60’s with a touch of the Mary
Quant and the Vidal Sassoon hairstyles. Colour palette is monochrome black and
white with accents of silver and beige. Patterns are abstract leopard print and
geometric designs, some embellished with tiny round mirrored pieces radiating a
disco vibe. The
key feature which definitely couldn’t be ignored on the day was the oversized
shell like discs adorning one dress and skirt – especially as they clashed
noisily with every move the models made. Not to be worn for a clandestine rendezvous.
Omar
Mansoor
More renowned for his glamorous and elegant
evening wear, Mansoor has taken a walk on the edgier side and created a boho
daywear collection. What is not
different is his attention to detail. Here he concentrates on intricate and
delicate lace work and fine knitwear layering.
Bernard
Chandran
You do a double take at the Bernard
Chandran show as the front and back of each outfit contrast with each other in
cut and design. You see simple on one
side, detailed on the other; short length on ones side, long on the other– reflecting
that there are two sides to every story and especially love.
DAY
THREE
Ekaterina
Kukhareva
Think Brigitte Bardot in her heyday 60s and
her St Tropez lifestyle. Colours are bright pastels and patterns geometric
shapes and stripes. From swimsuit to maxi dress, all are of finely knitted
jersey in different weaving techniques including pleats and ribs. This is
definitely a capsule wardrobe to carry on the fun from beach to evening.
Eugene
Lin
Here Lin chooses to express the erotic but
twisted manipulation of the Greek goddesses Hera, Athena and Aphrodite as each try
to persuade Paris that they are the fairest one. He cuts his pieces to appear distorted as if
in a state of undress. Trench coats are deconstructed into dresses, playsuits and
tops with strong emphasis on belted waists. Panels of wild and chaotic digital
prints on body con dresses and leggings mimic the goddesses’ tense and erratic
mood and show the golden apple – the start of all the trouble.
Luna
Sky
Inspired by the sophisticated lifestyle of
the 50s Luna Sky features evening gowns and cocktail dresses with Swarovski
crystals, sequins, delicate lace and fringe detailing. Her love of the Japanese
cherry blossom Sakura is there as laser cut flower details, some sparkling with
crystal stamens. Lemon yellow and peach may have been
popular in the 50s but it was the more defined blue and teals that caught my
eye.
DAY
FOUR
Craig Lawrence
Using cutting edge materials such as Japanese
Kyototex metallic yarns in his knitwear techniques, Lawrence enables his garments
to glisten as if wet. This season he
adds long optic fibres to help create the reflective light for a phosphorescent
underwater world- Some curved and stood out like a sea anemone, others softer
like swaying sea grass. Column tiered
dresses mimic the fluid shape of the glowing jellyfish and the textured knits
the spiky urchins. These pieces were made to be in the
spotlight and outshine all others.
Pam Hogg
It’s ShowTime! Pam Hogg’s pieces are not the most wearable
for your average girl in the street, but that doesn’t mean her collection is
not to die for. Titled ‘Save Our Souls’
the show started with a model clad in bandages followed by nurses flimsily
dressed to give any man a heart attack. The style changed to a combination of
futuristic nurse and air hostess look with zips galore, and from clinical white
to a rainbow of metallic colours. There was also a bit of the Showgirl glitz
with sequins and tulle. At the end it was Hogg’s love of the Victorian
crinoline skirt that wowed everyone. Here in its skeletal state baring all that
is underneath. Save our souls? I think we’re doomed.
DAY
FIVE
Nova
Chui (Designer duo Nova Chui and Jeff Archer)
This is one glorious way to show off your
holiday snaps! Using images from their travels, the designer duo created digital
enhanced landscape prints for their fabrics.
Scenes of mountains, forests, streams and sunsets are brought to life in
vivid colours. Scrunched and ruche neon organza adds texture but also a camera
filter effect as it partly covers the prints. These prints add fun and ensure that the
minimalistic and classic look of the collection is not taken too seriously.
Ashish
This season the Ashish girl is a maths geek
and so a fashion prime number. There’s a numeric print on oversized wonky
boyfriend shirts and denims. Sequin tops are completely backless revealing her
sexy side. Trousers are half and half:
one leg sequined whilst the other is matte; one leg skinny whilst the other is
palazzo style. The achieved style is a
random just thrown together look but as a maths geek, is it calculated?
Jena.Theo
(Designer
duo Jenny Holmes and Dimitris Theocharidis)
The title may be Hell’s Angel but this
collection is heavenly. Prints of tattoo designs and the odd spider add a touch
of toughness, but nothing to overwhelm the elegance and femininity of the
collection. Corset style tops of ethereal organza and digital prints look soft
and feminine. Glass beading and sequins bring
glamour to diaphanous latex and fine leather as well as the usual silks. A
quirky sense of fun is shown in the cowhide short skirts. Of course the denim
is there and although you’d need a slim figure, am loving the skinny fit denim
jumpsuit. Hand-rendered tattoo print and abstract
works are of the artist O.Two